Speaker patching

Hi, guys. I am presently working on an earlier RCA Victor 45 player with a lid. It's bakelite, three octal tubes, and, portable.
Anyhoo, earlier today I was noticing a growing rattling problem in speaker, and, the panic sign went up.
I got it apart, and, found it rubbing and, ripped.

When I got around to repair, here is what I did....
I removed speaker from amp.
I turned it face down.
I got out my small bottle of contact cement , and,a good sized piece of Scot toilet paper.
I didn't want this showing from the front, so, after evenning up what I found to be several rips, I put a good amount of cement on back of cone accross each rip.
I tore off a piece of toilet paper, and, put it accross that rip.
After I finnished those patches, I turned speaker over so front was sticking up.
I dabbed on the contact cement on each of those rips, and, just for safety sake, since it looked not right, I put it on circular area where cone attatcehs to voice coil.
I let it dry a couple of hours, and, put machine back together.
Upon trying it, the rattle is gone, and, set plays great.
Speaker no longer rubs, either.
Yes, voice coil was coming loose.
Not now.
Bill Cahill

That is good information.

Is contact cement the same as what used to be called rubber cement?

Well, it's got a rubbery texture when wet, but, it driessemi hard. It stays flexable like rubber cement, but, is stronger.
Bill Cahill

Should of used coffee filters they have fiber in them rascals. And 3m#77 adhesive .

Contact cement is stronger than rubber cement. Contact cement is used to glue Masonite or Formica sheeting to plywood. I used it when I refinished Voice of the Theater Speakers. The speakers had 1 inch plywood and was painted black. I used Walnut grained Formica and cut to size for 5 sides and trimmed with a router. then install speaker grill cloth, (Brown color). Trimmed all edges with brass channel and brass edge protectors.

Two professional cabinet looking, huge speakers. I mounted the external metal horn tweeters on the inside so they wouldn't show. They were used for music tours to other Churches. Best sounding Speakers I ever Heard.

They were 4 and 1/2" high

I dont use any rubber or contact glues ...or patch material over simple rips .
I only use wood glue and fabric glue . For a simple rip all you need is a very small amount of wood glue over the rip . Out on the flexable part fabric glue is used .
I only use a patch where there is a hole .

I used that method for years. I have some I did 20 years ago that are still as good as new. So I know it lasts for at least 20 years if anyone is wondering if it lasts.

Thanks, Bill. Good info. I do however wonder about the validity of any fix along this fashion that doesn't involve duct tape. At least use a bit to hold the wires in place. It's a law...somewhere.

Used dryer sheets are a good patching material. I use 50% thinned Aleene's Tacky Glue to attach them.

Coffee filters and fabric glue works great, have been using it for years.

Dave

Bright red polyurethane fingernail polish will work in a pinch. Do not use used coffee filters. Dont ask....


Regards

WC

Someone else agrees with Dancing Bear about the value of duct tape. Here is a picture of a speaker that came out of a Philco Console I purchased. Duct tape did the job!
Jerry

O.. M... G.....!

I keep a tube of this in the fridge and have used it for speaker tears. It is the consistency of molasses and can be applied with a model paintbrush. and it is mighty strong and doesn't crumble. It also absorbs into porous materials to bond well.

http://cdn.yoyoexpert.com/379/view/images/01.jpg

I did appreciate the painting of the tape with black spray paint. The patching didn't show through the grill cloth, making it a rather unpleasant surprise when I removed the speaker.
Jerry

I keep a tube of this in the fridge and have used it for speaker tears.

NO