Superior Instruments TW-11

It has all the tube setting updated supplements as of 1962, and the manual.
Is this a good kind? It seems to be in good working condition. I kknow these, and especially an emmision type tester like this one, has its limitations...

Any tube checker is good to have. There are some better than others but all do let you check a tube.Yours looks to be in good shape.

It would have been handy a few times since I re-involved myself in radio restoration. I managed without one, but glad to have it.

I think the neon lamp is weak though, or else the resistor(s) in series with it are high, because it doesn't always light for the filament test part. One tube it lit, another it didn't but the filament was good, a third tube with a good filament made it light for a few seconds and then it never came cack on. I am going to replace it and the .01uF capacitor that feeds it, and check the resistor values.

Most times I just use tube checker to see if filaments light.I will test audio tubes tho.Sounds like a bad cap .01 may be why neon light does not come on.Good luck.

I replaced the capacitor, the NE2 lamp, and one resistor out of three becuase it was pretty well drifted off spec. Still the same ecxept it dodn't come on and go off. It either lights with a given tube's filament or it doesn't. Must be some tubes have too high resistance or something. I'm not going to worry about it, like you say, it either heats up or not--and the other functions work fine.

That's a nice looking unit. I guess I went more for utility with a Knight 600. It's better to have one than fostering nagging doubts. A wood cabinet has appeal even when not in use.

This is the one unit I could afford, frankly.  
I would like to refinish the outside sometime. The inside and panel are nearly new looking. The outside had some shrinkage crack and the finish is dull. I already been testing my used tube stock and found a couple weak ones. Also, I got some cheap 32 ohm headphones ($10 from rack shack) and put a 1/4" mono phone plug on them so I can listen in to the noise testing port, and check for microphonics or staticky noise.

I looked up the Knght 600 and it looks like it has similar capabilities, but also has a gas test. Mine doesn't have that. Do you or anyone know how that works? That seems like kind of a neat, extra test function to have...

The gas test is not worth much in a simple emission tester, so don't worry about it.

OK. I know how to check for gassy tubes, in circuit, by looking for positive grid voltage or a glow (in some cases). Just thought it would be neat to have.

I've not had any to have a fail due to gas yet. Maybe now that you have one, the odds are better that you might find another at the right price with different characteristics. At least that is how things usually work out for me.

A simple emission tester doesn't apply enough voltage to most tubes to ionize gas.

I have bought, reconditioned and sold quite a few tube testers, and I found that many problems with unreliable operation can be cured by spray-cleaning the switch contacts with DeOxit D-5. It makes them last longer too. I started out with a Knight-kit KG-600B that I built from the kit, but have used mostly the mutual conductance types. They test a tube using a circuit that is much closer to actual operation in equipment. Most tubes will work if the emission is up to par and they're not gassy. A shorts test is a must also. My favorites were the Hickocks, Jackson, and Eico.

Dan King

75X11 wrote:...Maybe now that you have one, the odds are better that you might find another at the right price with different characteristics. At least that is how things usually work out for me.

Yup. Usually within the week.

dan88king wrote:I have bought, reconditioned and sold quite a few tube testers, and I found that many problems with unreliable operation can be cured by spray-cleaning the switch contacts with DeOxit D-5. It makes them last longer too. I started out with a Knight-kit KG-600B that I built from the kit, but have used mostly the mutual conductance types. They test a tube using a circuit that is much closer to actual operation in equipment. Most tubes will work if the emission is up to par and they're not gassy. A shorts test is a must also. My favorites were the Hickocks, Jackson, and Eico.

Dan King

I use Radio Shack tuner cleaner and lube. Works great for me.
A dynamic Hickok tester would be great, but they are too costly for me right now.

I got the issue sorted out with the annoying "no filament continuity test" I mentioned earlier. I figured I might as well get it all working right. Besides, you have to wait a while for a metal tube like a 6SQ7 to get warm enough to know the filament has continuity..might as well look up the pin-out and ohm it out then.

Anyway, it was a bad solder connection to one of the switches. The neon lamp lights now to immediately indicate filament continuity--Yay!

Looks like it's aged well. I know people of the same vintage that has more troubles.  

   

Never spray Deoxit in a tube tester or any other test equipment, use a "Q" tip and apply it sparingly.

Dave

I use a small piece of hookup wire or just a toothpick. Dip it into the Deoxit and you will get enough that transfers to the contact. A Q-tip sounds like it will get the Deoxit on too broad of an area. You are trying to avoid putting it on the phenolic.

Good idea.